Best Shoes for Trad Climbing

When embarking on traditional (trad) climbing, selecting the right shoes becomes more than a matter of comfort it’s a crucial decision impacting safety and performance. Trad climbing involves climbing routes where protection against falls is placed by the climber, making the reliability on equipment, especially footwear, paramount.

The right climbing shoes can enhance grip, support precise footwork, and instill confidence through challenging ascents. This article aims to guide climbers in choosing the best shoes for trad climbing, emphasizing why the correct footwear is not just a tool but a necessity for tackling vertical adventures safely and effectively.

Top 10 Shoe Reviews for Trad Climbing

1. La Sportiva TC Pro

La Sportiva TC Pro is designed specifically for the rigors of trad climbing, making it a favorite among climbers tackling long multi-pitch routes. The shoe features a flat profile with slight asymmetry, providing a balance of comfort and precision.

The upper is made from durable leather that molds to the foot over time, enhanced by a padded ankle cuff for extra protection in cracks. The Vibram XS Edge rubber outsole offers outstanding grip and durability, ideal for edging and smearing on various rock types. Inside, the shoe sports ample padding which significantly boosts comfort during extended climbs.

• Pros:

  • Durable leather construction molds to your feet.
  • Vibram XS Edge rubber provides excellent grip and durability.
  • Padded ankle cuff offers protection and comfort in crack climbing.
  • Flat profile suitable for long climbs.
  • Breathable and comfortable for extended wear.

• Cons:

  • Higher price point.
  • May be too stiff for beginners.
  • Takes time to break in properly.

2. Scarpa Vapor V

The Scarpa Vapor V is a versatile climbing shoe that excels in both trad and sport climbing. This shoe strikes a perfect balance between rigidity for support and flexibility for comfort. It features a slight downturn and a medium-stiff midsole which supports the foot on small holds while remaining flexible enough for smearing.

The upper is constructed from a mix of suede and microfiber, offering both comfort and durability. The Vibram XS Edge sole provides excellent traction, making the Vapor V a reliable choice for varied climbing conditions.

• Pros:

  • Versatile design suitable for both trad and sport climbing.
  • Balanced rigidity and flexibility.
  • Durable suede and microfiber upper.
  • Excellent traction with Vibram XS Edge sole.
  • Comfortable fit suitable for long sessions.

• Cons:

  • Sizing can be tricky; often requires sizing up.
  • Not the best for very wide feet.
  • Moderate break-in period needed.

3. Five Ten Anasazi Pink

The Five Ten Anasazi Pink is renowned for its precision and versatility on technical rock faces. This shoe features a flat last with a minimal downturn, making it comfortable for all-day wear on big walls.

The upper is made from synthetic material, ensuring minimal stretch and consistent fit over time. The Stealth C4 rubber outsole provides exceptional grip and is highly durable, ideal for trad climbing where varied footwork is required. The lace-up closure allows for a highly adjustable fit, catering to a wide range of foot shapes.

• Pros:

  • High precision and control.
  • Durable and consistent fit with synthetic upper.
  • Exceptional grip with Stealth C4 rubber.
  • Adjustable fit with lace-up closure.
  • Comfortable for extended periods.

• Cons:

  • Minimal padding which might reduce comfort in cracks.
  • Synthetic material may not breathe as well as leather.
  • Less ideal for beginners due to precision focus.

4. Evolv Supra

The Evolv Supra offers a fantastic combination of sensitivity and support, making it ideal for trad climbers who prefer a more sensitive feel. This shoe features a slight downturn and a tensioned heel for enhanced performance on steep terrain. The upper is made from synthetic materials, designed to maintain shape and size throughout its life.

The Trax SAS rubber sole provides excellent traction and durability. The Supra’s design is focused on providing maximum sensitivity without compromising on foot support, crucial for challenging placements.

• Pros:

  • Excellent sensitivity for precise foot placements.
  • Durable synthetic upper maintains shape.
  • Tensioned heel for better performance on steep routes.
  • Trax SAS rubber offers great traction.
  • Good for advanced climbers focusing on technical routes.

• Cons:

  • Not the most comfortable for very long climbs.
  • Synthetic material lacks breathability.
  • Might be too soft for beginners or those needing more support.

5. Mad Rock Drone HV

Designed with high volume (HV) feet in mind, the Mad Rock Drone HV accommodates climbers with wider feet without sacrificing performance. This shoe features a moderate downturn for versatility across different climbing styles, including trad climbing. The Drone HV uses Mad Rock’s Science Friction 3.0 rubber for superior grip and durability.

The upper combines synthetic and leather, offering a balance between comfort, fit consistency, and breathability. The innovative closure system ensures a secure and adjustable fit, making it suitable for long days on the rock.

• Pros:

  • Accommodates wider feet comfortably.
  • Versatile moderate downturn suitable for various climbing types.
  • Durable and grippy Science Friction 3.0 rubber.
  • Hybrid upper offers comfort and consistent fit.
  • Innovative closure system for a secure fit.

• Cons:

  • Might feel bulkier than other models.
  • Hybrid material may take longer to break in.
  • Heavier than some other models, which could be a downside for very long climbs.

6. La Sportiva Mythos

La Sportiva Mythos is an iconic climbing shoe known for its unparalleled comfort and adaptability to a variety of foot shapes. The soft leather upper molds perfectly to the foot, providing a custom fit after break-in. The Mythos features a flat profile with minimal asymmetry, prioritizing comfort for long multi-pitch routes.

The Vibram XS Grip2 rubber outsole ensures reliable traction, while the unlined leather maintains breathability. The versatile lacing system extends to the toe, offering precise adjustment.

• Pros:

  • Extremely comfortable with a soft leather upper.
  • Custom fit thanks to the moldable leather.
  • Excellent traction with Vibram XS Grip2 rubber.
  • Breathable and suitable for long climbs.
  • Precise lacing system for optimal fit adjustment.

• Cons:

  • Not the best for overly technical routes.
  • Leather stretches, requiring careful sizing.
  • Relatively less durable rubber compared to others.

7. Tenaya Masai

The Tenaya Masai is designed for climbers who value precision and comfort. This shoe offers a balanced approach with a slightly downturned toe and a medium-stiff midsole, providing support on small holds and cracks. The synthetic upper minimizes stretch, maintaining a consistent fit over time.

Its Vibram XS Grip rubber outsole excels in both edging and smearing. The Masai’s comfort and technical prowess make it a solid choice for lengthy trad routes.

• Pros:

  • Balanced features for precision and comfort.
  • Medium-stiff midsole supports diverse climbing demands.
  • Minimal stretch synthetic upper ensures consistent fit.
  • Excellent grip with Vibram XS Grip rubber.
  • Good for technical climbs and long wear.

• Cons:

  • Sizing may be challenging for new users.
  • Less padded than some other trad-specific models.
  • May not be as sensitive as softer models.

8. Scarpa Helix

The Scarpa Helix offers a more relaxed fit for those new to climbing or looking for a less aggressive shoe. It features a flat last with minimal asymmetry, making it comfortable right out of the box. The suede upper is soft and breathable, molding to the foot over time.

The Vibram XS Edge outsole provides durability and stability on various surfaces. The Helix is ideal for beginners and those who prefer comfort over high technical performance.

• Pros:

  • Comfortable for beginners and all-day wear.
  • Soft, breathable suede upper.
  • Durable Vibram XS Edge outsole.
  • Relaxed fit without compromising on performance.
  • Easy to break in with minimal discomfort.

• Cons:

  • Not suitable for highly technical routes.
  • Suede stretches, potentially altering fit.
  • Less precision compared to more aggressive models.

9. Evolv Shaman

The Evolv Shaman is designed with the advanced climber in mind, featuring an aggressive downturn and a knuckle box for toe comfort. The synthetic upper reduces stretch while providing durability and support. Its Trax SAS rubber offers exceptional grip and edging capabilities.

The Shaman excels in steep and technical terrain, making it a favorite among climbers pushing their limits. The “Love Bump” midsole fills dead space under the toes, enhancing precision and power.

• Pros:

  • Aggressive profile for advanced climbing.
  • Durable and supportive synthetic upper.
  • Exceptional grip with Trax SAS rubber.
  • “Love Bump” midsole enhances toe precision.
  • Ideal for steep and technical climbs.

• Cons:

  • Not the most comfortable for long climbs.
  • Aggressive shape may be too intense for beginners.
  • Slightly higher price point.

10. Black Diamond Momentum

Black Diamond Momentum is tailored for climbers who prioritize comfort and ease of use. This shoe features a flat last with a soft flex, making it ideal for beginners or those on long trad climbs. The synthetic knit upper is extremely breathable and maintains its shape over time.

Its molded rubber is durable and provides good traction, suitable for a variety of climbing conditions. The Velcro straps make for quick and easy adjustments.

• Pros:

  • Highly comfortable with a soft flex.
  • Breathable synthetic knit upper.
  • Durable molded rubber outsole.
  • Quick and easy adjustments with Velcro straps.
  • Ideal for beginners and extended climbing sessions.

• Cons:

  • Not suited for highly technical climbs.
  • May lack the precision of more aggressive shoes.
  • Limited support for overhanging routes.

Buyer’s Guide

Choosing the ideal pair of shoes for trad climbing involves a detailed understanding of the specific demands this style of climbing imposes. Here are several key factors to consider when selecting your climbing shoes:

1. Durability: Trad climbing often entails long routes and contact with rough surfaces, which can quickly wear down poorly made shoes. Look for shoes with robust construction, ideally with thick rubber soles and reinforced rand rubber around the toe and heel areas. High-quality leather or synthetic materials that can withstand repeated abrasion against rock are essential.

2. Grip: The sole of a climbing shoe is critical for maintaining traction on the rock. Shoes designed for trad climbing should feature sticky rubber soles that can secure a firm grip even on smoother surfaces. The type of rubber varies, with some being softer for better grip and others harder for enhanced durability. Brands like Vibram and Stealth are renowned for their high-performance rubber that effectively balances these traits.

3. Comfort: Unlike bouldering or sport climbing, trad routes generally take longer to complete, necessitating prolonged wear of climbing shoes. Comfort becomes crucial; thus, opting for a slightly more relaxed fit can be beneficial. Look for shoes with a padded tongue, breathable material, and an adjustable closure system such as Velcro straps or laces to fine-tune the fit as needed.

4. Material: Climbing shoes are typically made from either leather or synthetic materials. Leather shoes tend to stretch and mold to your feet, offering a custom fit over time, while synthetic shoes maintain their shape and size but offer less stretch. Consider the climate you’ll be climbing in as well; leather might provide more breathability in hot conditions.

5. Shape and Fit: Trad climbing shoes should support natural foot alignment and allow for precise toe placements. A flat to moderate downturn shape is often recommended as it offers a balance between comfort and technical capability. The toe box should be snug but not painfully tight, allowing your toes to lie flat or slightly curled.

6. Versatility: Given the varied nature of trad routes, from crack climbing to face climbing, a versatile shoe is a valuable asset. Look for shoes that perform well under different conditions. Some models are specifically designed to excel in cracks with their narrow profile and padding around the ankle and upper foot to protect against jamming.

FAQ

1. What should I consider when sizing trad climbing shoes?

Fit is paramount in climbing shoes. For trad climbing, where comfort is crucial for long climbs, choose a shoe that feels snug but not overly tight. As leather shoes stretch more than synthetic ones, consider this when trying them on. Aim for a fit that allows your toes to curl slightly without cramping.

2. How often should I replace my trad climbing shoes?

The lifespan of climbing shoes varies based on frequency of use, climbing environment, and shoe quality. Inspect your shoes regularly for signs of excessive wear, especially on the soles and rand. Typically, resoling can extend the life of your shoes, but if the upper is significantly damaged, replacement might be necessary.

3. Are more expensive climbing shoes always better for trad climbing?

Not necessarily. While higher-priced shoes often offer advanced technology and materials, the best shoe is the one that fits well and meets the specific demands of your climbing activities. It’s important to try different models and brands to see what suits your feet and climbing style.

4. Can I use the same shoes for bouldering and trad climbing?

While you can use the same shoes for different types of climbing, shoes tailored for trad climbing prioritize comfort and durability, which are less emphasized in bouldering-specific shoes. Using a dedicated pair for trad climbing might enhance your experience and performance.

5. How do I care for my trad climbing shoes to ensure their longevity?

Keep your climbing shoes clean and dry. Avoid prolonged exposure to heat and direct sunlight, which can degrade the rubber. If they become wet, let them air dry away from heat sources. Using a shoe bag can protect them from dirt and dust when not in use.

6. What is the best way to test shoe fit before buying?

Try on climbing shoes at the end of the day when your feet are more swollen to get a sense of how they’ll feel on longer climbs. Walk around, stand on your toes, and if possible, try them on a slant board or a similar surface to simulate how they’ll perform on a climb.

7. Should I consider shoes with special features like strap closures or additional padding?

Features like strap closures can offer quick adjustments, which are beneficial during long climbs. Additional padding might help protect against the pressure and friction experienced in crack climbing. Consider what type of climbing you’ll be doing most and choose features that will support those activities.

Conclusion

Selecting the right shoes for trad climbing is essential for ensuring both safety and functionality. The best climbing shoes combine durability, grip, comfort, and material quality to meet the challenges of varied climbing terrains. By choosing the appropriate footwear, climbers can enhance their performance and enjoy a safer climbing experience.